Summer is arriving here at Donum, and while we are thankful for the winter and spring rains that replenished our soils, aquifers, and reservoirs, I’m personally enjoying the return to sunny, warm days. The rapid growth in the vineyards suggests that the vines agree with me. Despite the winter feeling long, we are actually tracking about two or three weeks ahead of last year, or about 10 days later than an average vintage. This is a good place to be, as it means we should be able to harvest in a nice window in early September. In short, the season is off to a great start but, of course, we will have a long way to go.

Walking through the vineyards it is very striking to me to see the differences that our conversion to organic farming five years ago has made. The vines are in better balance, with even growth, and the foliage color appears more natural due to the elimination of synthetic nitrogen. One of the most noticeable changes is the sounds of birds and insects and how much the native insects enjoy the native plants and flowers in our insectary areas. Our commitment to regenerative agriculture means that our work is never done. We strive to improve each year, and it feels like we have moved out of the “transition” phase and into a new phase f where our focus is looking at the future and building the healthiest farm possible, rather than correcting problems.

Our summer offerings are quite diverse, encompassing Carneros, Russian River Valley, and Anderson Valley, as well as some library offerings. A vertical of the Carneros Estate Pinot Noir from 2018-2020 offers a unique opportunity to see how the changes in the vineyard have affected the wine. While all three vintages have their merits, I think it is interesting to note how the wine shifts from an emphasis on power in the ripe 2018 vintage to an increasing emphasis on finesse. Throughout each vintage, the terroir signature of the Donum Estate—concentrated fruit with hints of sassafras and salinity—makes itself known. Additionally, we are featuring the 2021 Ten Oaks Pinot Noir, the lightest wine from our Russian River Valley vineyard. A part of the Donum portfolio for ten years now, the Ten Oaks was our first wine that put an emphasis on savory, earthy flavors over fruity.


For the Grand Cru club tier, we are offering a mini-horizontal of the 2021 vintage, with one wine from each of our three AVAs. First up is The Observer, from Angel Camp Vineyard in Anderson Valley. Similar in style to our White Barn, The Observer undergoes whole-cluster fermentation, lending to a unique herbal component, and is lower in alcohol compared to most of our Pinots. Second is the Mikado Tree, from the Swan Clone planted at our Home Ranch in Carneros. The small berries and low yields of the Swan Clone contribute to the wine’s intensity and concentration, though its fruit profile leans more on the red fruit spectrum, with cherry and cranberry components, making it an interesting study in contrast. Lastly, we have one of our richest Pinots, the Heritage Clones Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley. Here the Calera clone imparts dark fruit flavors and a beautiful floral component, with a later harvest resulting in a powerful mid-palate.

Thank you, as always, for being a valued Donum Member. I hope to see you at our Summer Member Celebration during the last weekend of June.

Cheers!

Dan Fishman
Director of Winemaking & Vineyards
Winemaker